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The animal cruelty associated with Shahtoosh shawls luxury Pashmina shawls. It is Pashmina shawls that are
led to their ban in the year 1975. This was done under synonyms for Kashmiri shawls. When we say Kashmiri
the Convention on International Trade in Endangered shawls, we usually mean Pashmina, as wool shawls
Species (CITES), following a fall in the number of aren’t that famous and Shahtoosh is under a ban.
antelopes. This marked the end of the trade of these Hand embroidery is the only method of embroidery
precious treasure-worthy shawls. Now the only option left Pashmina shawls have. This is because they never bear
to grace formal and special events was the Pashmina.
the strain of machine embroidery. Artisans use lightweight
The texture of a Shahtoosh shawl is simply exquisite. The threads and fine needles to embroider these shawls.
wool fibers are incredibly fine - often as thin as 9 to 11 These might even take a number of years to complete.
microns making them much softer and lighter than even The creation of Pashmina shawls is an art form that came
the finest Pashmina. This makes Shahtoosh feel like down through generations in Kashmir. Unlike other types
a delicate veil on the skin, yet it retains an exceptional of Kashmiri shawls, which may involve machine weaving,
ability to trap warmth, making it ideal for harsh winter authentic Pashmina is hand-spun and hand-woven,
climates. It’s no wonder that Shahtoosh shawls were once maintaining traditional techniques that have existed for
a symbol of opulence, worn by royalty and the wealthy centuries.
elite across the globe.
Artisans carefully comb the wool from the goat’s undercoat
However, the rarity of Shahtoosh goes beyond just its in spring, when the goats naturally shed their wool. After
luxurious texture. Tibetan Antelopes do not produce as collection, the raw wool undergoes a lengthy cleaning
much wool as other animals, and because they inhabit process to remove impurities, ensuring that the fabric will
remote, high-altitude regions, gathering their wool has be pure and fine. The cleaned wool is then hand-spun into
always been a difficult and laborious process. Each fine threads using a traditional wooden spinning wheel,
Shahtoosh shawl requires the wool of at least three to five or “yinder.” Hand-spinning is a painstaking process that
Chirus, adding to its exclusivity and elevating its status requires incredible skill and patience. A single thread of
as the ultimate luxury item. Unfortunately, this rarity has Pashmina is incredibly delicate, and the spinner must
contributed to a much darker side of Shahtoosh’s history.
ensure it remains even and smooth.
Pashmina fabric (Fig 3)
Weaving is another labor-intensive step. Highly
Fig 3 skilled artisans weave the spun threads on traditional
handlooms. Depending on the complexity of the design
and the size of the shawl, the weaving process can take
several weeks or even months to complete. The time and
dedication required for this process make Pashmina truly
unique among types of Kashmiri shawls.

Artisans dye the shawls by hand, using natural dyes
derived from plants, minerals, and other organic
materials. These natural dyes are eco-friendly and
produce rich, vibrant colors that further enhance the
elegance of the shawl. After dyeing, they wash and dry
the shawls carefully to maintain their softness.
Toosha fabric

Changthangi goats in Ladakh Toosh is considered as one of the most regal colours of
The woollen shawls of Kashmir have an ordinary quality, Cashmere, as it is one of the natural shades that pure
and there is a ban on Shahtoosh. Hence, this makes Cashmere is found in. Ancient paintings of 16th century
Pashmina shawls the only flaunt-worthy shawls the leaders and nobles most of the times can be seen in this
valley possesses Pashmina shawls are handmade from classy colour, which looks and feels amazing.
the down fibre of the Capra hircus goat. The goat grows The Tosha Shawl, radiating brilliance and allure,
this fine hair to survive the harsh freezing temperatures showcases the exquisite Sozni Embroidery across its
in Ladakh. However, the goat loses this hair naturally in soft and warm fabric. The masterful needlework features
its moulting period, which is the Spring season. Herders charming vines and intricate Bootis, reflecting the artistry
collect it and process it into luxury shawls. and elegance of the craft. Hand-spun and hand-woven,

Raw Cashmere acquired from the goat measures a this shawl is a testament to the skill, dedication, and
meagre 12 to 16 microns in diameter. And this makes passion of the artisans who pour their heart and soul into
Pashmina shawls lightweight, soft and fine. Firstly, after creating such masterpieces.
its acquisition, artisans clean the Cashmere wool, and Semi pashmina: Pashmina material is highly delicate
then manually process it. This might take days, months and light, which makes the manufacturing difficult. This
or sometimes years together if the type demands. And is why Pashmina wool is combined with high-quality
what comes to existence after the painstaking efforts angora wool. This creates highly durable semi pashmina
and exceptionally skilful work methods of the artisans, is material.

H & C: Hand Embroidery Artisan : (NSQF - 2024) R.T. Ex.No 1.2.11 17